Over the past few decades the gap between organic food and the rest has narrowed. Not that long ago, if you wanted to be sure you were avoiding pesticide residues, artificial colourings and flavourings and preservatives, animal cruelty, human exploitation, soil degradation, hydrogenated fat and GMOs, the only safe haven was to look for the word ‘organic’ on the label, or at the very least, ‘natural.’
In March 2 2012 Nestle announced they were removing artificial ingredients from their entire range. That’s 80 formerly ‘safe’ additives that are now disappearing in ‘response to customer demand’ (and possibly also due to legal advice). The RSCPA Freedom Food label and ‘free range’ are nearly organic. Fairtrade reassures on exploitation. Hydrogenated fat is finally out of most of our food, though the fast food industry need to pull their socks up. The US is pushing for GMO labelling, which will be a nail in its coffin
Nestle’s announcement coincided with the Soil Association conference. Farming is moving towards organic as well. For a long time the Soil Association maintained clear blue water between organic and the rest by raising its own standards. But under Helen Browning’s leadership a more pragmatic and outward-looking approach is emerging. The theme of this year’s conference was ‘Agroecology.’ What is agroecology? Well it’s organic, with knobs on - but also with more flexibility. So it considers things that go beyond organic, such as air and water quality, greenhouse gas emissions, social and economic and political impacts. It looks at food from a global holistic aspect, not just from the view of the farmer and the food processor. And it’s on a roll.
A big driver has been the 2010 IAASTD (International Assessment of Agricultural Science and Technology for Development) report, where 400 of the world’s top agricultural experts agreed that there was no future for more intensification of agriculture; that the Green Revolution was a disaster; that GM foods won’t help; that we have to look to small farmers for the wisdom and the resilient technologies of the future if we are to feed the world and prevent climate change. Download a copy and read the executive summary of this influential document. Monsanto and Syngenta, who helped choose those experts, dismissed it grumpily the week before it was published.
When Lady Eve Balfour founded the Soil Association in 1946 nobody was worried about greenhouse gas and global warming.
The day before the conference I visited 2 Soil Association licensees. One creates remarkably effective organic fertilisers. He criticised Soil Association policy of restricting external farm inputs. The other said that, as a propagator of vegetable plugs that go out to most of the country’s organic vegetable growers, there was no way he could operate without external inputs. He has no livestock and no need of them. He uses peat (with Soil Association blessing) to get seeds off to a good start. At the conference’s agroecology workshop 4 of the speakers guiltily commented that they had to buy in some inputs. Who cares? If you have a farm of a certain size, and you raise animals for meat or milk, then you can create a system that is a self-contained island or productivity. But what if you just grow vegetables, or cereals? What if you’re vegetarian? Agroecology says we have to reduce meat and dairy consumption if we are to get the right balance in food production. It encourages agroforestry, where you use trees and shrubs as part of food production, to increase tree cover, improve soil quality and reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Organic encourages dependence on cows and other methane-emitting animals as part of a mixed farm system. That means more pasture and fewer trees.
It’s time to lighten up and to embrace the ‘opposition’ and bring them towards a holistic and environmentally sound system that is truly organic…and agroecological. They’re already moving in our direction and the Soil Association conference was a historic step toward embracing them and bringing them into the fold before it’s too late. Look out Monsanto – the ground is starting to slip away from you.
