vegan

The Road to Wellness

“There was a boy, a very strange enchanted boy.  They say he wandered far, very far, over land and sea.  A little shy and sad of eye, but very wise was he.  And then one day, a magic day he passed my way and we spoke of many things, fools and kings, this he said to me: ‘The greatest thing you’ll ever learn, is just to love and be loved in return.’”  These lyrics from the song ‘Nature Boy,’ were a major hit for  singer Nat King Cole and became a jazz standard.


The author of the song was eden ahbez, one of the 1940s “Nature Boys” who lived in the as-yet-undeveloped canyons and backwaters of Los Angeles.  They were vegan, ate raw food, practised deep breathing, cold water bathing and meditation.  One of their members was ‘Gypsy Boots’ who opened the Health Hut in Hollywood selling organic food and was inventor of the ‘smoothie.’  In the ‘90s Gypsy Boots was a regular at the Natural Foods Expo in Anaheim, where natural foods folk queued up to enhance their credibility by being photographed with him.

 

In 1939 Lord Northbourne hosted the Betteshanger School and Conference on Bio-Dynamic Farming on his Kent estate.  Leading lights of biodynamics attended and a major outcome was Northbourne’s seminal 1940 book Look to the Land.  This is where non-chemical farming was first described as ‘organic’ - this is the 80th anniversary of the coinage of the term.  Northbourne saw the real war of the future as being between organic farming and the industrial model. Eve Balfour’s seminal book ‘The Living Soil,’ which led to the foundation of the Soil Association, devoted 7 pages of the first chapter to a long direct quotation from Look to the Land.  Her core message was “The health of soil, plant, animal and man is one and indivisible.”  In other words, people couldn’t be healthy if the land was sick. Or, as George Harrison, quoting the Maharishi put it ‘for the forest to be green, every tree must be green.’

 G Scott Williamson, who ran the health-supporting Pioneer Health Centre in Peckham described the neighbourhood as having a profile of all communities, ‘from the dregs at the bottom to the scum at the top.’  His wife Dr. Innes Pearce, co-founded the Soil Association.

So was the confluence of thinking between the pioneering proto-hippie Nature Boys of California and the upper class English engagement with an example of a shared perspective by the nobs and the yobs?  Mary Langman, Balfour’s personal secretary, confided in me that in the ‘70s the Soil Association was alarmed by the emergence of the hippie-ish natural food stores with their macrobiotic notions and long-haired approach to organic living.  It took more than a decade for the Soil Association to accept the natural foods movement as allies.

 A new book “Retreat: How the Counterculture Invented Wellness” traces the origins of the wellness movement and its roots.  From the spiritual lead of the Maharishi and Rajneesh, from the Beats such as Allan Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac, the liberating psychology of  Jung and Wilhelm Reich, the author Matthew Ingram diligently explores the multifarious threads that came together to create the counterculture.  The hippies didn’t just spring from nowhere, the idea of living in harmony with the planet had deep and multifarious origins.  Plato had a thing or two to say on the subject.  Ingram covers Timothy Leary and LSD - one wonder if the counterculture would have made the strides it has without it.  Communes, retreats and ashrams were where the ideas were tested in practice.  Even Charles Manson gets a mention.

 For anyone who is interested in how we got here, “Retreat”  is essential reading.  It is a pity that the discovery of wellness on a global scale needed Covid-19 to galvanise awareness that comorbidities such as diabetes and obesity are what make us so vulnerable to what is, for many, a harmless virus.  Lord Northbourne and Gypsy Boots may seem odd bedfellows, but they both saw the war that lay ahead, if not how prolonged it would be.  Now more than ever, we need to understand and develop the connection between the planet’s health and our health.

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Vegfest

Way back in 1944, when the Vegan Society was born, they dabbled with different names and ended up with “Vegan’ the letters of which were ‘the beginning and end of veg-etari-an.’  Hard to imagine that they were being that prophetic all those decades ago, but boy, are they gaining traction now.  These days, vegetarianism is the gateway food choice to veganism.

In the 70s the Vegan Society began publishing a printed list of vegan foods.  This was in the days when ingredient lists on food products were optional.  Of particular interest was crisps: the only flavour listed as acceptable to vegans was “Prawn Cocktail Flavour”.  All the other crisps had milk powder or derivatives in their flavour coatings.   It wasn’t easy being a vegan then, well now it is…and much more fun.

Anybody who was at the vegan mega-festival “VegFest UK” in Brighton in the last week of March could be forgiven for thinking the battle was over and that vegan militancy could lighten its stance.   No way, vegans are on a roll.  There was seminar after seminar on activism. 

There is a dynamism about Veganism that warms my heart.  None of the friendly compromise between vegetarians and meat eaters, no common ground.   The consumer of eggs and milk is complicit in shortening the lives (I could’ve said ‘murder’ but I’m trying to walk the middle ground here) of chickens and calves.  Vegans’ hands are clean.  

The Hunt Saboteurs Association were handing out copies of their magazine ‘Howl,’ which contained an erudite article dismissing the stereotype that hunt sabs are really about class war and ‘sticking it to the toffs’.  This critique diminishes the seriousness of the passionate and militant wing of veganism.  But what is clear to any vegan is that all activity that involves taking food away from animals or killing them for their meat (or for fun) has got to stop. 

The Brighton Centre was rammed.  At any given time there were up to half a dozen well-attended workshops, lectures, discussions and musical events - this wasn’t just about looking at lots of interesting vegan products, this was about conferring, debating and consolidating the thinking of the movement.   Plenty of beards and dreadlocks but also plenty of mainstream middle-class people who had come along to get with the programme.  The youth of the attendees bodes well for the future of veganism over the next few decades.   Speakers were armed with the facts: if we were all vegan then climate change anxiety would disappear, the countryside would be more biodiverse, badgers would sleep in peace and the pressure on the NHS would disappear. 

Vegans understand nutrition much better nowadays and there were lots of products that contained the kind of concentrated nutrients that are important to athletes and active vegan lifestyles.   I chatted to one particularly muscular guy and his very fit wife Zoe.  He said the guys at the gym can’t quite believe he really is vegan, thinking he must be sneaking meat somewhere to keep those pecs so well defined.   “Protein is protein,” he commented.  “It’s the iron you pump with it that counts.”

Junk food has its place in veganism too.  There was a burger stall with proud signage: “Vegan Junk Food.”  And CBD was all over the place, in food, in remedies and in skincare.  All you have to do is call it ‘medicinal’ and low-grade cannabis fetches a better price than skunk.  The Hempen Cooperative were selling hemp leaf tea, hemp seed oil and CBD oil.  I suppose you could smoke the tea if you were so inclined.  

Although many of the speakers extolled the environmental virtues of veganism, I was surprised at how many products on display were not organic.  My first reaction was that vegans were less concerned about organic provenance than about being animal product-free.  However, it soon became evident that there is an opportunistic element - many food processors make vegan products anyway, could care less about vegan or organic principles but see a fast-growing market and were out in force to capture the loyalty of this very committed constituency.   

I sampled and bought a jar of yummy vegan pesto - it was indistinguishable from (I hesitate to use the adjective), the ‘real’ thing.